Compact chainsets

Following on from my discussion on the bike numpty thread I was reading this today :
http://www.britishcycling.org.uk/web/site/BC/roa/EventReports2007/20070718_Colne_GP.asp

about last night's Elite Circuit Series crit at Colne. The winner of the race (Simoin Gaywood) had this to say about the win:

"but luckily I had the legs to take the win, and all on a 50 ring”

Now that's an Elite rider winning against seasoned professionals like Malcolm Elliott and the Downing brothers.

Still think you *really* need a 53 outer ring? ;-)
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Comments

  • That is verrry interesting !
  • popsiderpopsider ✭✭✭
    It's a crit that means a flat circuit - hence no pedalling down hills. He would have had it in the big ring the whole time - are you saying that's evidence we should only have one front chainring ?

    He'd almost certainly have used an 11 up block - so just mirroring the same gears he'd have got with a 52/53 and a 12 up - only it's cost him more.

    The only advantage of a compact is if 39*25 isn't a low enough gear for you - if that's the case then consider getting one - if 39*25 is plenty low enough then there are a few small reasons why a 53 or 52 *39 is preferable.


  • perhaps he "span out" on those gears at a speed over 25mph popsider? ;-)
  • 53 x 12 = 117"
    50 x 11 = 120"

    actually he's increased his gearing by putting on a 50 ring assuming he did use an 11-up
  • Pops - I dont think you can say that the only advantage of the compact is to get lower gears.

    The article I was reading was pretty convincing in showing that on a normal set up - we duplicate lots of gears. Using the compact set up = the spread of gears seemed better.

    (I think it was an ad for compacts and then slightly biased, but seemed to make a lot of sense to me as I flicked through it)

  • cougie, a 12-23 spread on a normal set-up gives 4 c/ring + sprocket combinations that are the same.
    A 12-23 spread on a compact set-up gives just two, so yes another reason.
    Also, Gaywood *may* have chosen a compact set-up to enable him to have gearing in which he could use to accelerate quicker out of the corners but still have that top gear which enabled him to sprint for the win.

    ANother reason to have compacts is to run close ratio cassettes at the back to minimise the jumps that occur while also allowing a lower gear ratio overall. So you get the benefit of the 39 x 25 equivalent but without the big spread normally associated with a 13-25 cassette.

    I run a 12-21 in the winter with a 34/50 compact which is no handicap and allows me to conserve energy by climbing in a seated position as everyone else struggles in 39 x 23. I don't lose out with 50 x 12 and let's face it, in the winter when do you ever need such a gear?
  • I spend most of the year on my fixed - I think thats 42*17 and does me fine for everything but fast descents.

  • Another convinced compact user here. I use a 12-27 in training, but an 11-23 for racing. I am thinking of putting on an 11-25 (only available in 105, why?) for IMFrance next year.

    Having a 34 or 36 tooth for climbing and a 50 tooth for the flat means that I spend more time in the smaller cogs where the spacing is closer, meaning it is easier to be in the correct gear. I have said it before, and I will say it again, if the top guys in the tour are happy using 53-11, 50-11 is plenty for us mere mortals.
  • M.ister WM.ister W ✭✭✭
    I have an 11-25 with my compact chainset and the only time I've failed to get up a hill was a 25% climb on my last long ride before IM. It's useful to have that low gear on an IM as you want to keep your legs spinning at a reasonable speed so they're in good condition for the run. I could probably have got up the hills in Austria in a higher gear but wouldn't have been very much quicker and would have knackered my legs for the run.
  • Oh my, I've stumbled into an alternate universe where nothing makes sense. So sorry...
  • Ooh someone somewhere posted a pic of one of the guys in the National TT Champs. He had a carbon fibre chainring that must have been into the 60s.

    And STILL he didnt win ! Amazing eh ?
  • should have gone for a 64.

    have to say i'm much happier with a compact now. i actually get to use the big ring. only ever used to use the 53 on downhills. which is why i changed to compact. plus i figured the lower gears would make it possible for me to get up steeper hills without taking years of my life (borrowed that phrase from david millar).
  • tee hee - I saw that quote too.

    Poor Daveeed. Astana screwed both him and Moreau.

    Another long break after the Pyrenees maybe ?
  • popsiderpopsider ✭✭✭
    OK let's settle it with a race - anyone on here that uses a double vs the compact users !!

    Here's why I don't think compacts are necessarily the best choice for everyone again.

    1 You get a compact but use an 11-21 or 11-23 to mirror the higher gears on a standard double.
    - You get less choice of cassettes
    - You pay more for cassettes
    - Chain runs slightly less well over an 11 tooth cassette.
    In other words no advantage but some small disadvantages.

    2 You get a compact to lower your gears.
    - you risk spinning out if you want to pedal down hills up to about 40mph
    - You get lower gears for climbing.
    Good idea if 39*25 isn't low enough for you - bad idea if you don't need lower gears

    3 You get a compact for a greater spread of gears as Cougie says.
    - If you get a 50*36 then the gap in teeth mirrors the 53*39 - still 14 teeth.
    - If you get 50*34 then you've got a very big jump and I know people who have ditched these because of it. When you change down for a hill you lose momentum and have to change up so many sprockets on the cassette, when you change up for a sprint or hill you have to change down so many you also lose a bit of momentum. Having close gears is actually an advantage if you don't need a bigger spread.

    And the idea that pros use compacts is a myth - they said on Eurosport that nobody was on a compact or triple for the biggest mountain stage of the tour so far. The only time they use them are for stuff like the Zoncolan in the Giro - if one or two use them outside of that it's just to flog them to punters who like to see think that their kit is the same as some pros use - it legitimises the choice. The truth is that many pros routinely ride much bigger gears than us with 53*44 being Boonen's choice for Paris Roubaix - and I bought a bike off Malcolm Elliott and it had 53*42 and an 11-21 on it - that was for training in the Peak - so riding a 39*25 is not some macho thing trying to emulate the pros - it's already substantially lower geared than them.
  • Race ! Race ! Race !
  • i run 50/34 with no problem in changing gears, all I did was drop the front mech down I already had and away we go.
    The vast majority of people would benefit from lower gears - most guys on the club run stand up on climbs to shove over a 39 x 21 and waste energy.
    A compact c/set is fine as who needs to maintain a cadence when reaching 40mph downhill? You're better off learning to pedal correctly on the flat or uphill instead of grinding away in 53 x 12 at 25mph thinking you're going quick
  • M.ister WM.ister W ✭✭✭
    The pros don't use compacts because they ride at over 45kph and don't have to get off their bikes and run a marathon.

    I don't and I do.
  • popsiderpopsider ✭✭✭
    Well if MM would address the arguments rather than talking about whoever it is that rides 53*12 at 25mph then it'd help. Anyone is welcome to come out on our club run and show us the right way to climb hills - we do about 70+ miles in the Peak most weeks so you'll have plenty of opportunity to spin your way up.
  • Ok - understand all of the above... I want a new bike and had been wondering about what chainset to have. Current bike has a triple on it. On club rides which tend to be hills, steep hills and more very steep hills I always end up on the lowest gear I've got, seated and going up at my own slowish pace (the fast IM men leave me for dead), interspersed with could be a bit of standing still in the smallest chain ring but a couple up the cassette. Never have to get off the steep mile long hills and unless they are really bad and long do keep my heart rate under control. For the new bike I was wondering about a compact but would it go low enough for me to hill climb? I rarely use the big ring and smallest gear on the flat as I struggle to drive it.

    Compact/ double/ triple?
  • M.ister WM.ister W ✭✭✭
    I used to ride a triple and I now ride a compact. I wouldn't go back. If you're a triathlete and you're buying a new bike then unless you're a very strong cyclist I'd say go for a compact. I have a 11-25 cassette which gives some lovely low gears.
  • Will stick with anecdotal evidence rather than attempt pseudo science :)

    My Spesh Sirrus flatbar commuter came with a 50/34 & 12-16 setup. It's been great around town, and even with toeclips rather than cleats, was good enough to out run plenty of peeps uphill and on the flat on several Olympic tri's and the Vitruvian half IM. While everyone else was grinding their hearts and knees out, I was spinning up the hills and never saw most of them again. If it runs out of gears going downhill, just tuck down and enjoy the cruise.

    Intended buying a compact racer, but ended up with a 53/42 & 12-23 setup which as a lazy, fat, old git, was a bit like hard work around Richmond Park. Put a 12-26 on the back, and even with my casual approach to training, have got around IMDE & IMA on that setup with no problems. Probably swap the 42 for a 39 if I sign up for IM France as the hills are supposed to be nasty.

    Both setups worked for me, but the compact has the edge for hillier courses and less genetically gifted triathletes. If you want to do TT's or bike only events the big gears might be more important than the knackered legs :)
  • popsiderpopsider ✭✭✭
    "Never have to get off the steep mile long hills and unless they are really bad and long do keep my heart rate under control. "

    Why do you want to keep your heart rate under control - unless you've got a cardiac condition dig in and suffer or you'll never improve. It wont wreck your ability to ride aerobically - a mate I train with has just done a 3 hours 54ish for 100 miles and he does loads of high intensity stuff - I'm assuming most of us would be happy with that kind of result.
  • Popsider - erm I do dig in and suffer... (and I am massively better than 3 months ago) heart rate 'under control' to avoid blowing up and/ or a massive asthma attack when in the middle of 30 odd mile hill extravaganza!

    Thank you Kanga that is useful I 've done a couple of TTs but even then it is only on the very fast bits I use the highest gears. To lose some of the top end gearing would probably not affect me a great deal.

  • Iron W - thank you. I may borrow a bike with a compact and just try to climb a few hills!
  • Hmmm, interesteing conversation...

    I have a bike with 39/52 on the front and 11/25 on the back and live in the black mountains. I am from the netherlands and was used to the flat. I had a 12/21 casette on the back before but was recommended teh 11/25 by the LBS here as the most cost effective way to get my bike up to hillier standards.

    I use all gears on my regular rides but do struggle a bit up very steep hills. Been told that I will get used to it (not ridden in the hills that much yet) and that it is not a good idea fr me to get a compact, because I will loose power on the flat and downhills as I already use all the higher gears as well as the lowest ones?

    So do I just strengthen those quads and hammies and get on with it or get a compact is the question?

    Oh, I am a runner and bought the bike second hand last year as I want to venture into tri, so that is waht I'd use it for. However, ALL my rides here are hilly by default...
  • I have thought about a compact chainset and will probably go for one for next year - however I thought I would try for a more compact waistline first to help me get up the hills and then see what I think :O)
  • Personally if you're jsut slightly short then I'd swap the 11-25 for a 12-27. Loads cheaper than going for a compact.

    Just my opinion though.
  • Its a tough one to answer!

    If your struggling on the bike and have trouble with hills get a compact for racing but if you can train on a 52/39 as it'll improve your leg strength and CV.

    If you have a bail out gear and use it all the time then you'll get no better and it may be easier up the hills but spinning up on a 34 25 is a slow way of getting up a hill and the hill is where you want to be working. Look at the time gaps they open up on the big tours when they hit the mountains.

  • Alas, my bike won't take a 12-27... that was what the LBS suggested as well originally :-( not sure why, I am not particularly technical when it comes to bikes...
  • I do get caught slightly short on the steeper hills, but maybe I just need to get out more and get stronger... my problem is that I feel uncomfortable in my cleats when grinding up a hill very slowly, with a chance of loosing momentum completely at some stage.
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