Which wheels?

Right a bit of help. Ignore the question of getting Tri specific bike as s would confuse matters. I have a moderate bike (specialized 105 with cxp 22 wheels). The wheels are the obvious change to make to upgrade and gain speed (apart from training)! So for less than ??500 what do I get? I am moving next month to a flatter part of the country and would still use the cxp 22 for commuting and general training. Would I be better getting Mavic Kysrium Elites or a set of Planet X 50/50? I am aiming for them to be fairly all-round and not too extreme to get the most use. Am I perhaps missing the point?
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Comments

  • Im on my 2nd set of Kysrium Elites on my road bike and have found them to be good wheels, reliable and very sturdy.  A few years ago they were rated very highly but I dont know how they compare now or to the Planet X.

    The Elites I have are not aero, so you may find the Planet X are more suited for the flat? 

  • That's the decision I think. Light all round Ksyriums (non aero) or Planet x aeros and pray for no hills!
  • Are you talking about the PX 50/50 tubulars, or the more expensive 52 mm clinchers?  I wouldn't bother with tubulars unless it's solely for racing, and even then the difference is marginal these days.

  • The 52mm clinchers. I know they're a bit more than 500 once I've added a tyre etc. they would be used for Tri and occasional TT. I think I am swaying towards aero over Ksyriums.
  • I have to 60mm clinchers, which can be 'interesting' on a windy day. The 52s may be a bit easier, and of course it is weight dependant.

    To be honest, they're probably the same as their model-b wheels, with a carbon fairing. Fairly solid and they make a great noise. The Model-Bs are also worth a look - sub £150 and similar weight (~30mm profile).

  • I have kyserium elites, but I nicked them from the OH when he up gradedimage

  • I have the Guru 50s from PX. They're a fantastic wheel, really light but you pay for it with a bit of flex if you're big and really hammering. Fortunately I'm little and can't pedal for toffee image

     

    http://www.planet-x-bikes.co.uk/i/q/WPPXPRO50GURU-RAD-SHI-TUB/planet_x_r50_guru_team_edition_carbon_race_wheels___radial___shimano_sram___tubular

    These ones image They weren't bad in the wind either.

  • I am pondering wheels too



    I want a set of 40mm deoth wheels for lanza this year and a disk/ deeper front for other races without rhe hills and wind



    Cant afford both..... So i have bought nothing
  • I like the GB tubs they look awesome!
  • O.rangeCannon I came, I saw, I knitted wrote (see)
    I am pondering wheels too

    I want a set of 40mm deoth wheels for lanza this year and a disk/ deeper front for other races without rhe hills and wind

    Cant afford both..... So i have bought nothing

    Please sir! (puts hand up). I distinctly remember you showing off pictures of your power meter like a first-born. That is why you can't afford it! image

    I think TigerFrog do some 40mm wheels, or there is always the Zipp 303s.....with a DiscCover for the rear?

  • I would add, whatever you do, stick on another 60 quid for ceramic bearings, I have been REALLY impressed with them.

  • oh dear......

    the things you do / say after x pints  image

  • Cat do you know much about the Tigerfrog wheels? Temptingly priced... image

  • I quite like the look of the deep Tiger frog wheels. They're just down the road from my mum so I may pop in for a look.

    As for ceramic bearings, are they just a straight swap? Where would I get them from?

    I do quite fancy a disc rear.

    What would be the best choices for Outlaw & the half?

  • I don't know much about anything Eng.... image

    However, Mr Eng will hopefully back me up here. If you know the size of the bearing, you can get ceramic replacements from SKF or a similar bearing supplier.

  • IronCat5 in the Hat wrote (see)

    I don't know much about anything Eng.... image

     

    At last, something truthful on here image

  • I googled ksyrium elite ceramic kits. ??300!!! Must get a set image
  • I thought the advantages of ceramic wheel bearings over decent quality stainless steel were meant to be tiny - like  fraction of a watt - most of us would probably get more with a new chain.   If you have Mavic hubs often they (well the rear anyway) have a rubber seal inside which adds a bit of drag - if you aren't riding your wheels much in the wet if you space that out with a small washer that'll give you a little bit of improvement too.

  • IronCat5 in the Hat wrote (see)

    I don't know much about anything Eng.... image

    However, Mr Eng will hopefully back me up here. If you know the size of the bearing, you can get ceramic replacements from SKF or a similar bearing supplier.

    Yes and no. You can buy bearings from SKF quite easily, and I have done in the past (though in high torque actuation applications, not bikes). I recall a discussion with the tech guy from Zipp a while back who was talking about this though, and essentially not all ceramic bearings are created equal - this is because the most common application is not fancy bike wheels, it's high temperature industrial applications.

    I'm not sure I recall the technical differences in gory detail but the essence of the discussion was that the ceramic bearings specifically for bikes differed in more than just material selection (given that thermal expansion is less of an issue). Commonly I've seen ceramic feature more balls of a smaller diameter - presumably as the manufacturing tolerances are tighter? A good chunk of the benefit may well be through simple stuff like sealing rings being toleranced to optimise friction at the service temperature intended, rather than for a generic application.

    Note also that there exist both fully ceramic units and those with silicon nitride coated balls in a steel race. I'd have to read a bit more about them (and reach a level of performance where 1W made a difference) before going shopping, personally.

  • What would concern me is the maintenance interval. The SRAM red kit with ceramic bearings needs an clean and oil every 200 miles.

    I'll stick with the OEM bearings in the PX wheels I have until they inevitably fail, then replace with aftermarket normal bearings.

  • Fulrum quattros were recommended to me as a semi aero wheel at a decent price.

  • How long do bearings last in OEM wheels, or the ones that you chaps are talking about?

    And how challenging is it to replace them? I mean, including the inner cups.

  • One of the bike mags tested deep rim wheels last month and they reckoned the PX 52mms were the best under a grand.  And I think they're about £400 !

    It was on one of the PX weekly emails anyway.

    Lifes too short to maintain bearings every 200 miles !  I've a Dura Ace hub that was on my best bike and now is on my winter bike. Never had to mess with the bearings and the wheel is at least 20 years old now. OK so it only gets 50 miles plus a week in the winter - but its not nice miles. 

     

     

  • Blisters wrote (see)

    How long do bearings last in OEM wheels, or the ones that you chaps are talking about?

    And how challenging is it to replace them? I mean, including the inner cups.

    If they're balls then easy to change. And if you check them every now and then you may not need new cups and cones.

    Sealed bearings are harder to change - you need a puller or some kind of drift to knock them out. Advantage - no cups and cones.

    cougie wrote (see)

    One of the bike mags tested deep rim wheels last month and they reckoned the PX 52mms were the best under a grand.  And I think they're about £400 !

    It was on one of the PX weekly emails anyway.

    Lifes too short to maintain bearings every 200 miles !  I've a Dura Ace hub that was on my best bike and now is on my winter bike. Never had to mess with the bearings and the wheel is at least 20 years old now. OK so it only gets 50 miles plus a week in the winter - but its not nice miles.

    I'm sure 220 or TriPlus reviewed them and said they were great for the price. I have the 60mms; can't fault them for the money.

    The 200miles was for the Red bottom bracket! on review it may have been 200 hours. I have the tech doc somewhere but can't be arsed to find it...

  • I've just been into the rear wheel bearings. One side has gone rusty (honest). Both cup and cone are wrecked, and the balls were visibly mis-shapen. This is not good on a bike that's Barley (sp) a year old.

    I've done a temporary fix, but I'm not a happy bunny.

  • What wheels are those ?
  • I had some planet X 52mm clinchers. They were ok, but I wasn't overly happy with the quality. I opted for some American classics in the end.
    Part of me really wants a disc, just for the noise.

    I will go and see TigerFrog at some point and look at their deep wheels

  • I had a pair of Ksyrium Equipe wheels for many years. I did the Etape Du Tour, all sorts of UK sportives, duathlons, club rides and 10 mile time trials using them and really couldn't fault them as they were robust, responsive and well priced. Then last year I splashed out on a pair of PX 52mm clinchers and sold the Equipes for 60% of what I paid for them, which was a bonus. I've done hilly sportives (Dragon Ride) and flat OD triathlons using the PX wheels and will use them for IMW this year.

    Both Mavic K's and PX are superb all rounders for the money, but I go  for the PX if forced to make a choice as the aero advantage is certainly noticeable.

    http://chasethepotato.wordpress.com/

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