Numpty IM Bike Thread

1293294296298299406

Comments

  • Argos do some torque wrenches, but I'd be more tempted to go to screwfix or similar and get a decent brand.  Personally I don't use carbon seat posts.

    Slippage isn't an issue, use the paste as mentioned.

    Definately don't use carbon standard drop bars and clip ons.  Carbon base bars with specific tri bars are designed for the forces so that will be fine. 

  • you don't need paste - you can cut up an old an old inner tube and use some of that which will then act as a buffer between the two carbon surfaces.

    as with pops I don't use a torque wrench on carbon but go on feel
  • Uh oh - my ebay bike came with carbon handlebars, and I was gonna put my tri bars on it - they're carbon too (jeez, cycling for only a few months and I'm on the journey to poncery).... why it bad? What i do now? Me no spendee monee?

    image

    Edited to provide some actual info to ye bike gods: the bars say WIi compositti and the tri bars are Profile Carbon Stryke, which have recently moved from decorating the bookshelf to being on the turbo. Was going to move them to road bike in next few weeks....but now I'm worried....

  • ok, sounds like carbon stem only is the only possibility for slightly more comfort.

    thanks for the tips.

  • ?? Carbon stems are not going to be long enough to damp.  They are £££ for no purpose at all IMHO.    Get the comfort by spending £7 on some decent bar tape.  Nice thick spongy stuff and decent gloves.  I've also used part of another pack of tape on the strykes.

  • I've heard of WR Compositi DRB - is it them ?    I would check with the manufacturer whether it's OK - I wouldn't do it unless you do check - some carbon bars are carbon wrap anyway rather than full carbon.    If the worst comes to the worst you can probably sell the carbon bars on ebay and then buy some aluminium ones fairly cheaply - with bars I'd buy new if you do that.   If you can't find a contact for the manufacturer try BikeRadar forum they are pretty clued up on tech stuff on there.

    ps - agree with Dunc - I wouldn't bother with a carbon stem for comfort - call me old fashioned but I'd rather the stem and bars were overbuilt rather than offering some flex - I doubt you'll notice any difference and anyway I'll put up with a bit of discomfort for the knowledge I'm not going to end up doing a faceplant at 30mph when the stem snaps.   As he says - bit of padded tape or maybe a slightly wider tyre like a 25mm. 

  • Oops, yes, WR, not Wii (er, spot the numpty).

    Thanks, will do that! image

  • I think a lot of the problem with carbon is build quality - there's so much cheap carbon flooding onto the market now that they are keeping costs down by compromising on build so it will fail quicker under load...........if you want good quality, you have to pay that bit extra - if you want more safety, go metal

    I've had a carbon seatpost shear off under me but it was a cheap branded one - the bike builder admitted this and replaced it with a USE one which is a quaility product and I've had no problems since
  • FB - Good point.  People talk about 'carbon' as though it's all the same.  Bit like saying I've got a metal frame.  The bike, not me.  I just dance like terminator.

    Anyway, back on topic. Compared to the length of the forks and  steerer then the stem and even bars can't really do that much to 'dampen' the buzz.  I think there's a bit too much written about the comfort of carbon, at the end of the day you want stiff then you get stiff.  You want to float then the handling (and power transfer) will be dulled.

  • wow, even more money saved then image

    have to admit i'd totally forgotten about thicker tyres and come to think of it the bartap is really thin not like that gel stuff.

    final question, do you ever replace saddles?  my fizik arione tri saddle was so comfortable when i got it.  but 3000 miles later it's fairly uncomfortable.  or at least my back's uncomfortable.  that could be down to my conditioning of course.

  • Saddles - yes, but 3000miles is barely broken in.
  • guess i'm just being a gaylord then.  i thought as much.
  • yep - HTFU.......

    you're just out of condition JD
  • All,

    Going back to utter utter basics, how much should I be looking to spend on a bike? I want something that is a hybrid so I can use it for sport AND commuting, and not interested in having something fancy for fancy's sake.

    However, at the same time I want something that will last and not fall apart at the drop of a hat. Like most people, I don't have all the money in the world, and don't want to end up getting ripped off by some sales person who sells me something more advanced than I need.

    As a general gist I am just starting triathlon training! 

  • £5-600 is a good entry point for some quality - and if you're happy to buy last season's model you can now get a bike that used to cost around £1K for that........
  • so much?? nope - as I said - £500 is a good entry level if you want something that's going to last and do a decent job

    yeh - you can pay a £100 for a bike but it will be heavy, have shite componentry, will race like a crock and will fall apart at the first sign of stress..........but it will do for getting you to the shops and back if that's all you want

    2nd hand maybe a way forward for you though - you can pick up some used bargains if you know what to look for.......

  • JD -

    I hunted for a torque wrench for doing carbon bars a while ago - the ones you can get from Argos, Screwfix etc did not have a low enough setting - fine for doing the cylinder head on the car but  wouldn't go down to the typical 6-10nm needed for carbon bars. Park do one for about £40 but you may get one cheaper - make sure you get an adapter to take hex driver bits.

    I got mine from a company called MDT in Gloucester but I can't find them on the web now.  Bit of a shame as they used to have all sorts of crazy things like spacers for raising the pads on the tribars. 

  • I've a low range one, Draper are the manufacturer.  However th one I have seems to have been discontinued and replaced with one costing £120.image
  • I think most people would agree 500 quid is alot of money!! Though yes, I take yr point that you get what you pay for.

    I will have a look at some second hand bikes, and do some research to see what I should be looking out for! 

  • Nom, it's all a matter of perspective.  There are a lot of people that would pay that per wheel, in the same way as some will have a watch that costs 4 figures, or a buy a £30k car, etc etc.  You get what you pay for with bikes, but in fairness then the benefits are massive for each £50 up to £500, then continue pretty well through to £1000 and then after that there is little benefit for each £250 after that.  So the £500 is probably the best 'value' point, below that then you're actually getting something that will not last, and not be pleasant to ride.
  • nom wrote (see)

    Going back to utter utter basics, how much should I be looking to spend on a bike? I want something that is a hybrid so I can use it for sport AND commuting, and not interested in having something fancy for fancy's sake.


    Lots more people commute on road bikes than race on hybrids.   

  • bryan - thanks for that info.  £40 doesn't sound like too much to avoid a faceplant.  they're not fun!

    a hybrid really isn't much use.  nice for commuting i guess and the odd ride along a canal path.  not much more beyond that really or at least not compared with a road bike.

  • looking to sort out the garage now.

    those bike racks that hang your bike by the wheel either against the wall or from the rafters - do you reckon they're safe?  would they damage the wheel?

  • popsider - I know what you mean, but unfortunately my commute takes me through a couple of parks so I need something that can handle the mud!
  • JD. They'll be fine, although personally if you've got the space then I'd go for one of the ones that holds the frame / bars rather than the wheel, but the reality is that the forces on the rim are much less from the weight of the bike than the weight  of you!
  • Can anyone point me in the direction of a good website where I can learn basic info about bikes?

    I don;t even know what different gears are used for, just that they make the pedals easier or more difficult to push.

    Grateful for some direction! 

  • Hmm, parktool.com for basic maintenence and www.shaldonbrown.com for the wider stuff.  A lot of shaldon will be too detailed for you, but thesimple stuff is in there.

    Gears - you've got teh basics, jsut make it easier to pedal or faster (those two being opposite).  The human body works best with the legs spinning round at about 90 rpm, the gears let you go as fast as possible whilst keeping your legs going at that pace, adjusting for hills and wind.

  • Mr BumpMr Bump ✭✭✭

    Another Mr Bump numpty question!  Hope you can help, please.

    Today, I noticed a loud ticking/clicking noise coming from the front brake area when braking lightly.  Braking heavily and coming to a halt creates no noise.  I thought something was stuck in the brake pads. but a closer inspection revealed nothing.  On getting home, I swapped the front wheel and no problem, so that suggests it's not the brake.  Anyway, I've given the wheels (Roval Classique Pavé II) a thorough clean, and there appears to be a chip on the braking surface - possibly hit by a stone???  Anyway, is this likely to be the culprit?  If so, is there anything that can be done, apart from a new wheel image.  

  • Likely to be, or the pads are catching the tyre but the chip would seem the more likely culprit.  May not actually be terminal for the rim, any chance of some pictures of the chip?

Sign In or Register to comment.