Numpty IM Bike Thread

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  • I dont think I've managed to chip my carbon yet ? And I've had it a few years now.
  • oh, much to my suprise i successfully bidnipped a carbon compact crankset nice and cheaply.   ex pro supposedly with 200 miles on it.  on reflection it seems unlikely a pro team would ride a compact (albeit expensive) unless they specialised in riding mount ventoux all summer.  it's a bit scuffed.  no doubt with the huge amount of power i put through the pedals through the pedals it'll soon fail boonen style!
  • re: singlespeed wheel removal

    Can you get quicklinks for single speed?  All I know is that the chain is a bit wider, and I've only seen quicklinks for 7, 8, 9 and 10 speed.

  • good point there MrB - the only quicklinks I have are on standard chains and the 3/8" chain on my singlespeed doesn't but then I don't have a problem getting that off like a fixie.......

  • Thanks again.  I'm not sure what size chain my singlespeed is - I  must find out.  Anyway, it looks like I need to undo the bolts (obviously) then push the wheel into the horizontal dropout, which will then slacken the chain, which means I should then be able to get the wheel off. 
  • i think most singlespeeds have chains the same size as those on bmx's.  i'm sure someone over on bikeradar will know.
  • quick question - am i right that all i need to remove these hollow Truvativ gxp chainsets is this tool from wiggle

    LifeLine Shimano/Truvativ Hollowtech Bottom Bracket Too

    http://www.wiggle.co.uk/images/lifeline-8917-med.jpg

    l

  • Yep.  Some people prefer the open end ones as then you can tighten the BB without removing the cranks, but I've never needed to do that, you just make sure it's right before you put the cranks on.
  • thanks , i was wondering why the open ended ones would be good.  i see now.  so the cranks just go on with an allen key i guess.

    one other thing - the threads - do you put loctite on them or anti-seize?

  • Anti-seize.

    And yes, just allen key for the cranks (assuming it's like Shimano), but you need a special tool to tension the endcap, Park do a dual ended one that has the BB at one end, and the plastic cap adapter on the other.

  • you can also use a standard allan key (8mm I think) to tension the endcap and it's suggested that these are only slightly tighter than finger tight so no great pressure needed.........

  • Didn't realise that about the 8mm - although I'd be cautious that you don't mangle the endcap as it's (deliberately) made of light plastic.  You're right about the low pre-load pressure though, 3-4 Nm IIRC which is F-all.
  • you can get an XTR metal endcap which does the same job....

    somehow my plastic one broke on the MTB trip over New Year - probably a stone whacking it - and led to a strange scenario. I was riding along and my left foot felt wobbly - first thought was a cleat screw had come loose but I looked down and saw that the LH crank was about to come off the splines which would have been interesting! because the endcap had come off it led to the screws holding the crank on working loose hence the whole thing coming off.......

    when I got back to the UK and tried fitting the new endcap it wouldn't engage - the whole chainring setup had moved slightly to the right as a result (which would also explain the indexing not being right as well) so when that was knocked back in it fitted fine....

    amazing how much difference to the drivetrain that little plastic endcap makes
  • Hmm, but the two bolts on the axle should be providing all the grip?  The endcap is the same as teh topcap on the steerer, essentially you should be able to get rid after it's been fitted.
  • that's what you would think Dunc but I can assure you that endcap makes all the difference - I think it stops any likely play in the crank on the spline and that play starts loosening the bolts. I tensioned the bolts up pretty tight after it happened but they still worked loose again a couple more times before the end of the trip....
  • Had a crank fall off on an old fashioned square taper.  Ws a right PITA, was riding along, got the wobbly feeling and then came off, still attached to the cleat though.  Was riding through the City of London on a weekend.  Repeated tightening with multitool and then 2 mins of cycling got me home, but did spell the end of the BB and crank. 
  • Morning chaps,

    I'm in the market for a second hand wheel (8 spd shimano) that I can stick a turbo tyre on - do you have any suggestions for websites to keep an eye on?  Ebay and bikeradar already added to the favourites list. 

  • hmm, no sign of an end cap on the one i bought.  will check in detail when i get home.

    <a href="javascript:void(null)">

    http://i2.ebayimg.com/05/i/001/34/4a/128c_12.JPG

    </a>

     <a href="javascript:void(null)">

    http://i10.ebayimg.com/02/i/001/34/4a/03b8_12.JPG

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  • FF ask your local proper LBS or cycle club. Amazed what lurks in some peeps sheds!
  • Ok, you can see the 'endcap' on the top photo, there isnt anything on the drive side as that's welded to the axle.

    However it looks a differnt system to shimano, seems to be 2 diffrent sized allen key slots in it.
  • Ferrous.  Nowhere specific, but worth asking in shops too.  It's the sort of thing they may have lying around and not even bother advertising.  Or of course you could use this as a perfect opportunity to build your own.  Get a 28 hole hub and bog standard rim, some cheap spokes and get buildingimage
  • thanks dunc, i was under the impression an endcap would seal it.  but i see now.
  • JD - there's all sorts of tech docs on the truvativ website which should help you

    http://www.sram.com/en/service/truvativ/view.php?catID=1&subcatID=5
  • actually - this is probably the one you want - see Step 4 for a view of the endcap on that crank

    http://www.sram.com/_media/techdocs/2005_gxp-05-r5-e.pdf[url
  • FF, I picked up a pair of wheels for my turbo bike from LBS. Ok I spend lots there, but they were free cos they were going to lob them. The rear is a really worn out (like concave!) open pro rim on a duraace hub, and the front an old alex rim on some hub Ive never heard of.  I even thought about breaking them down and whipping the DA hub out the back one, but just CBA, seeing as the rim is so worn the hub must have 1000s miles on it.

    If your LBS does loads of repairs they are bound to have an old snotty wheel or two lying about.

  • FB - thanks alot for that.  that's perfect.  i'll take it apart this evening and make sure all the bits are there.

  • >^o^<
  • okey dokey, any recommendation for bars and stems?  aluminum (or at least not carbon).  there seems to be millions of them but i can't tell the difference between any of them really.
  • And that's the end of it image

    ITM are pretty middle of the road servicable and safe.  Main thing is to fond the pair with the reach / drop / wiidth that you want.  Stems, I'd prefer to stick with 4 bolts for extra safety, but it's no real biggie.  Only thing you may want to look for is if you want oversize or not, consider tri-bar clamps, although most are suitable for both now and if the OS bar is tapered as that can prevent clip ons staying put. 

    Planet x have some cheapish bars, or anything off Chainreaction. 

  • Eh up, anyone know whether there's much to choose between tyres and puncture protection? 

    Maybe I'm just lucky but I've had what must be several thousand miles of completely puncture-free cycling until Saturday when I had one on a Schwalbe Lugano, which I've only used for about 500 miles.  I happen to have a pair of Continental Gatorskins on my other (not being used) bike - would I be better off sticking these on? Do they offer genuinely better puncture protection?

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