Numpty IM Bike Thread

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Comments

  • CO2

    just makes me think: "son of Candy Ollier"...
  • Oh please somebody do the gag......
  • you're making it worse
  • that one has to go in the mag.
  • Haile - 100 mile trip I'd take a spare inner tube, pump, 2 water bottles, food - maybe a couple of muesli bars and bananas, mobile phone, some money and 2 bottles of water. Might take a waterproof if it looked like rain.
  • Thanks for the responses to my question guys - appreciated.

    Great article about fitting the bike IR!

    I think my bars / brakes / hoods aren't set up properly, so I'll spend a day at the weekend with an allen key trying to get things in balance in that area. I simply loosened the stem (?) bit and swivelled the bars upwards before which improved things (bringing the hoods upwards), but now the drops are very uncomfortable. I think I need the bars where they were, but with the brakes (hoods) moved up around 1 - 1 1/2 ".

    If I do this will I screw anything else up? E.g. gears, brakes etc. I guess not but I thought I would check first. I know I could take it back to the bike shop, but they will fit it back to something that I find uncomfortable (even if it is done properly!!)
  • Grizzly,
    I had to do the same thing. I found moving the hoods up got rid of the pain in my hands and arms on longer rides
  • and while we're at it - anyone got a recommendation for a "Bike maintenance for Numpties" book?
  • Hynes bike book mabee?
  • The most fundamental question: I'm bewildered by the choice on offer, so can anyone recommend an entry-level bike for the novice, and an idea of the sort of money needed to buy something worthwhile. If not makes and models, perhaps what to look for and what to avoid.
  • musa, I think the standard entry level bikes are:

    Trek 1000 (I have one of these)
    Specialized Allez
    Giant OCR 3 or 4 (whichever one is around £500, can't remember the exact model)
  • Another question on frame size: My hybrid is a 54 - can I go and order a Trek 1400 online in the same size and save myself a packet, or do I need to try different sizes?

    One more thing. I've got SPDs on my hybrid. Is it "ok" to get them for a road bike or will I be better off with SPD-SLs? And new shoes...
  • I personally wouldn't order one online without trying one in a shop.

    I'm managing OK with SPDs on my road bike, I'm using my MTB shoes. My only problem with the MTB shoes is they're not fast to get on & off, even with elastic laces. But for an IM, I don't think you should worry so much about that.
  • Toucan, thought there was a reason to empty the CO2, and it appears the same reason I am not a rocket scientist.
  • LOL!

    Even for the most anal of cyclists, the weight saving from switching CO2 to usual air is minimal at best.

    A large fart will have a similar effect.
  • here's a numpty bike question: Wtf are "tubs"?
  • Tubular tyres. So they are like a tyre and innertube sewn up together. You glue them onto a rim which is different to the normal wheel rims.

    Lighter and more responsive but pricier.
  • Tubular tyres. Instead of the tyre being "open" at the bottom, where it fits onto the rim, the outer tyre encloses the inner tube completely, in a tubular style. They stick onto the rims with rim cement or tape.
  • rosey, i think its somethong to do with how it responds to heat. maybe it expands/contracts more than air does? i can't see that it makes much difference though.
  • Tyres come in two versions - Tubular (Tubs) and Clincher.

    Clincher are the ones used on most bikes and are the tyre/inner tuber combination most are familiar with. THere are cost savings with this as punctures mean only a change of tube and they are generally harder wearing. They are slower than tubs.

    The easiest way to think of a tub is of just an inner tube stuck to the wheel. They are made of a different material and can be reapaired by resticthing whihc is quite difficult. They are speedier than clinchers but not very hard wearing. The ponces use these for racing
  • Tubular tyres - there are 2 types, tubulars (or tubs) and clinchers (or wire-ons).

    Clinchers have 2 parts - a u cross sectioned thick rubber trye, and an inner tube. They are easy to change, cheap to replace and generally used by everyone.

    A tub is in essence a very very thick inner tube (or a tyre with a circular cross section), which is glued on to the wheel rim. These are more expensive, temperamental to change (though with practice it's easy), but are generally considered to run a little bit faster. You can also inflate them to a higher pressure.

    To be honest, there's very little between the performance between the two, but clinchers are easier and cheaper to run.
  • i prefer tubular tyres for safety reasons. if you're going fast and clinchers blow out, you're screwed. i had a blow out at only about 40mph and i did a triple summersault with the bike still attached to my feet. luckily i always wear a helmet.

    if you're doing more than 50.... well, maybe you should pin a note to your saddle saying what music you'd like to have played at your funeral.

    tufo clincher tubs are safer, but they are a pain to fit onto clincher rims.
  • only 40mph! help
  • FB hit 70mph in switz didn't he?
  • that's gravity for you!
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