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Numpty IM Bike Thread
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Long time since this thread has seen the light of day. My bottom bracket is making all sorts of creaking and clicking noises particularly under load, a bit of googling and youtubing suggests I'm going to need one of these and one of these to actually dis-assemble it, but the question to the experts out there is, any hints or tips for what I'm looking out for? Most of what I've read so far seems to suggest grease and re-assemble or replace.
I had the same on my winter bike earlier in the year, I needed to replace one of the cups as it had siezed, I got an intergrated version of the above;
http://www.evanscycles.com/products/park/bb-and-crankarm-tool-hollowtech-2-ec008302
But also found that i needed to ensure i greased the crank arms on replacement as they started creeking.
I'm definitely no expert though
Does anyone know any weekly training rides/chain gangs near Sidmouth/Exeter sort of area - anything that doesn't mind someone joining in - I'm down there on holiday in a few weeks and wouldn't mind trying out something new.
I've had a set of Mavic Cosmic CXR60s for about 3 months now and I'm not happy with how they are bearing up.
The brake track on the rear has turned silver, cosmetic right now but I wonder what damage or degradation has been done, the correct pads are fitted. The front is still as new colour i.e. black, they have treated carbon tracks rather than ali. Also on the rear there is (was) a valve guide that has parted company with the rim and left strands of CF, this happened today just riding along the noise from the rear got worse and worse as it was vibrating in the rim and resonating through the whole bike before falling out, miraculously I stopped and found it in the road.
3 months down the line, what do you reckon my chances are of a swap under 'manufacturing error/fault'?
Generally speaking under Sale of Goods Act any failure within 6 months can be called as 'manufacturing error', provided you've not been using them to open beer bottles (or other non cycling related things) you've got a legal recourse.
Thanks, I wasn't sure re time elapsed so that's very helpful.
Pops - maybe ask on these guy's Facebook?
http://www.svcc.org.uk/
Ta had assumed the place was probably too small for a club.
Question for the wise ones on here. What is the best torque wrench for using on a carbon fibre bike, it has the saddle marked at 8 and bottle cage holes at 5, all in newton metres whatever they are. Mr Steady has torque wrenches but they are for using on cars so much too high a setting on them.
Depending on how friendly you are with the LBS, they may be able to tighten to the correct settings for you if you're really worried.
Failing that, it depends how precious you want to be about getting the correct torque. Anything below 10 to me is a "tighten it up so its snug, but don't go mental" type of setting. Sorry I can't be more precise =(
Thanks DaylightR, I have a very practical husband who loves tools so it gives him a chance to find something new and shiny to buy for himself as well as for me to use. I like your calibration of tightness, sounds like a good system for the most part.
It is worth having the tools. Bike shops sell a range for different budgets and you can't really go wrong if you buy from there.
Two main types: ratcheting and beam. The ratcheting type will allow you to tighten the fastener to the chosen setting and then "click", at which point the wrench will stop torquing the fastener and rotate a bit. These are more common.
The other type (and my preferred type though less common) is the beam type. This will have two metal beams coming from the head of the wrench rather than one - one has the handle and a gauge plate, and the other has an arrow or indicator which lines up with the gauge. This type won't release at a given setting - you don't need to set it - you just apply force gently and increase until the tool is bending such that the value on the gauge is correct. Really simple, easy to see what you're doing, and you don't have to worry about checking you set the wrench up correctly. Park Tools sell one for smaller fasteners (TW-1) and one for a higher range of torques (TW-2). You'll want the TW-1.
Another tip is to make sure you get some carbon fibre assembly paste. This isn't like normal grease, but will increase the friction between the mating surfaces - this ensures the part stay tight together without needing excessive force which would crack a carbon fibre component. Multiple brands are available, I use this: http://www.wiggle.co.uk/finish-line-fiber-grip-carbon-fibre-assembly-gel-50ml/
Thanks TE, I knew someone would know the details.
I was only aware of the ratcheting type and totally ignorant of carbon fibre assembly paste.
My Giant is 8 speed and I was thinking of changing it to 9 speed and increasing the cassette to a 32 tooth, what implications would this have on the derailier apart from changing the chain what else do I need to do?
What's the 32 for ?
I'm shit on hills Cougie
you will probably need a mid length cage rear deralier - so it can handle the longer chain when you are in a high gear.
I have no idea if 8 and 9 speed fit cassetes fit on the same freewheel - (ie wheels take 10 or 11 speed - the 10s just have a little spacer added)
Do you have a compact chain set. If so, a 32 will mean you can get up just about anything
Thanks guys, I'm on a compact.
- continental turbo tyre that's never been outside so nothing in the tyre
- not the rim tape as the hole was on the outside of the tube
This has happened twice in 2 months, pin prick sized hole in the tube both times.
If anyone is close enough and fancies a bike rider over Xmas I've organised a ride on the 28th Dec from the Broadway pub, Duffield Rd, Derby
2 groups, same route, social pace group leave 9am, faster pace group leave 9.30. About 60 miles with a cafe stop late on after which most will roll back the 10 miles or so.
Weather permitting should be decent sized groups and it's not all one club so nobody is going to ask if you are "local". If anyone does fancy it pm me and I can give you a gpx of the route.
Think this have been asked before but here goes
My brand new carbon TT bike has just arrived, I'm in the process of getting it fited and I notice that seat post over goes so far down due the the shape of the frame, I need to lose about an inch and a half, so the question is can I just cut it off my self, file the edges down, don't know much about carbon and don't want to damaged the seat post
I did one with a hacksaw too - seemed pretty easy.
Using a fine-tooth blade and a bit of tape around the bit you're cutting will give you a cleaner cut, but it's a seat tube so neatness isn't really an issue. Steerer tubes need a bit more care.
A question to those more experienced than me...i.e. everyone. Out on my ride today a guy came past me and shouted something like "your brakes aren't centered". It was windy and I didn't quite catch it. Shouted for him to repeat and he did but he was even further away and didn't hear him then either. I stopped and checked for anything mechanical but there was nothing obvious.
Now, he could have been shouting anything I guess, including but not restricted to "You're a crap cyclist" "You have an unimaginative forum name"...or any other number of possibilities.
Is it likely that he was shouting something about my brakes? What would an experienced cyclist be likely to shout at some numpty from behind? I just can't see anything significant enough to warrant a shout.
To compound this issue I forgot to restart my Garmin for a mile or so after checking for this mystery mechanical!!
QR lever on the wheel is done up ? I'd let someone know about that - but not about the brakes - I've never thought to look.
Thanks Cougie, I checked them at roadside and seemed fine. Had a better check once home and again seemed OK. Nothing obvious anyway.
QR is done up too. Most odd. Ah well, it can't have been too major or he'd have stopped/slowed down to make sure I understood!!
Cheers!
I am running Swalbe Luganos 700 x 23. I can remove these tyres without levers, last week I had a puncture so I fitted a new tube (Conti race 28) 700-23/700-25.but when I inflated it it forced the tyre off the rim. Any ideas why , are my tyres knackered?
Was the tyre properly seated inside the rim before you began inflating? I had the same thing happen and the tyre wasn't quite seated fully/properly to start with. I think the flat tube was probably in the way somehow as a bit of kneading all the way round fixed it.