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Numpty IM Bike Thread
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how the hell can the thread wear away? did you cross-thread it or something, or are the pedals/cranks made of cheese??
Im not really sure what has happened, taking it into the shop tomorrow
I had a crank fall off within 100miles of use on the cx bike. Started knocking and then within 100yrds (before I had found a safe place to stop) came off completely.
Was a case of cross-threaded crank arm - the shop assures me they didn't attach the crank, it came assembled from the factory. When we looked at it, lots of little bits of thread were all over the place and none left to re-attach. I suspect you'll find the same issue on your pedal thread by the sounds of it. If so, you might find you need a new crank arm + pedal.
Hope it's not too expensive
Looks like I managed to cross thread the pedal when I put it on, cost me 40 quid for a new crank arm, luckily the pedal is still OK. You live and learn. Really could do with doing a basic bike maintenance course.
I did a bike maintenance course last year. Must admit that I've forgotten the vast majority of it (and none of it is that complex anyway). However it wasn't just to get understanding of basic bike mechanics - it was more to build confidence that what I was already doing was correct, and also give me a bit of confidence that should something go wrong on an IM bike leg, I'd have at least a little knowledge of what I could do to get me round.
My own opinion having done one? probably not worth the money, but really depends on what you already know and what you want to get out of it. If you're interested Cytech do a "home mechanic" course that covers the vast majority of what you'll ever need. Anything not covered by the course should really be done by a specialist anyway.
Apologies for a for sale post but it's not my bike - someone i know is selling a TT bike and seems like a bargain to me - I can vouch it wont have been ridden much might suit someone here ?
http://www.derbymercury.org.uk/forum/gear/19448-trek-equinox-9-tt-bike-with-many-carbon-upgrades-hardly-used.html#
I'm finally going to make the leap and buy a TT bike. No-one seems to hold stock in any of my local or semi local shops/chains so I'm going to go for the cheaper option and buy on-line.
The problem I have is that I'm 6'1 with 32" inside leg which seems to leave me on the junction of Large and Extra Large (or equivalent) on size charts. I've now be told by different customer service departments of different companies that going for the large size will a) be more aggressive, b) less aggressive. Not looking for anyone to tell me what to do I just want to understand the advantages and disadvantages of going for the bigger or smaller size.
This will effectively be my one and only bike I will train on it, turbo on it and race on it with a focus on half IM and full IM.
Thanks
Try many. Buy the one that fits. Anything else will cost more in the long run and put you off TT bikes for life.
Different manufacturers have different frame geometries (long & low, short & tall). Your morphology & flexibility will tend you to one type versus the other.
Typically going to a smaller frame might make it more aggressive in terms of a lower front end; whilst more aero the position may limit your power output. A larger frame may be less aggressive and allow you to output more power with an increase in drag (assuming a higher cockpit). Cockpit and saddle position can also alter the aggressiveness.
It is easier to make a bike bigger but not so easy to make one smaller. I could probably size up to an L frame on my current TT bike and keep the contact points (saddle, pedals & cockpit) in exactly the same place. I couldn't do that by sizing down to a S frame without making it very twitchy to ride.
What is the bike you are looking at?
Scuba T, I am the exact same measurements as your good self and had the same dilemma, when I went for fitting to the new bike XL they couldn't get it right and I ended up being fitted to the Large. My dad always said that a smaller frame is more nimble and easier to adjust up to suit you whereas the large frame can't have bits sawn off it to make it fit you! If buying on line then I would go for the Large and just put the seat up a bit to suit your leg length, check out the adjustment on the TT bars if there is more adjustment than the difference in the frame top tube length you should be good to go
Cat, I'd love to try a few but phoned 7-8 shops in my localish area and only 2 of them had a TT bike in the shop and only one was about the right size. They want a deposit to get in a bike specifically for me to try so I have given up with that idea and am going the online route.I like the look of the Dolan Scala but have also seen a discounted Neil Pryde on wiggle.
Effing, thanks for you input.
Whatever you go for get something with a very adjustable cockpit or budget for an upgrade. Saddle too.
Hvae you got enough budget for a bike fit? I don't mean one of the normal bike fits where you take your bike along. Some bike fitters have a funny retul / tt bike type device which they fit you to to work out the best geometry for you (stack / reach etc).
From that, they then go through which manufacturers and frames are most likely to fit you well. Just an idea - I appreciate it adds a couple of hundred quid to the cost.
What DR said - I went to my LBS that had a fitting service and came away with diagrams & dimensions for road & TT bikes, which I use to build up each bike. If I was buying a complete bike, I could either get the closest match from size info on the websites or if I was buying from someone like Dolan I could probably send it to them and ask for their recommendation. Worst case you need a longer/shorter stem but that's not a big deal.
What EM says about smaller frames being easier adjust is generally true, but be careful with the height of the bars - with forks being sawn off the height isn't very adjustable, there's a limit to how much height an adjustable or high angle stem will give you if the bars are too low. TT bikes tend to be lower at the front than road bikes for aerodynamic reasons, which doesn't always suit older, less flexible folk. One reason for getting a bike fit, at least then you'll know what to look for.
looking for a bit of advice. Started tri just about a year ago, hadn't ridden a bike in over 15 year +. When I started I got a bike on the cycle to work scheme and went for a triban 520 from Decathlon. Over the course of the year its took a fair bit of stick me not being as careful as I should be, a few misadventures with home repairs ect and also a few tumbles on the way of learning to use bike shoes.
A year later still loving the sport and as my cycle to work comes to an end I am thinking of upgrading, I'd still use the scheme so my max investment is £1000 and looking at reviews I think the most bang for my buck would come from BOARDMAN PERFORMANCE ROAD TEAM CARBON TIAGRA.
My question to the people of more experience out there is will I actually feel a difference in this sort of bike? Will I see a difference in performance?
yes and yes... the difference between an 'ok' bike, and a decent stiff lightweight carbon frame with a good groupset is massive. It will feel alive compared to your current steed...
The Boardman bikes are excellent.... they have suffered a little from snobbery in the past (partially I suspect due to the Halfords retail channel), but gradually, their quality is winning out... the team carbon consistently gets good write ups.... (no vested interest..... I don't own one, or profit from them)
My bike is really noisy when pedaling, also if I wheel it anywhere backwards (think the chain is rubbing on the rear derailleur it also keeps slipping out of gear at certain points (not anything particular that causes this) any advice would be very grateful.
Sounds like your gears need indexing. Go on Youtube. Search GCN indexing gears. you'll find a number of how to videos which are very easy to follow.