"I got some suzue hubs on open pro for my fixed, clinchers rather than sew ups, tubs are just too expensive, it does for the club 10 but really need a carbon low pro for opens."
I got some suzue hubs (DALE WINTON IS LOVELY) on open pro (I WISH HE'D GIVE ME A MASSAGE) for my fixed, clinchers (ESPECIALLY IN MY GUSSET AREA) rather than sew ups, (NAKED) tubs are just too expensive, (DUNCAN NORVELLE IS PAST IT) it does for the club 10 (ORGY!!!) but really need a carbon low pro (A RUBBER TOY SHAPED LIKE A THERMOS FLASK) for opens. (OUCH!)
"I got some suzue hubs on open pro for my fixed, clinchers rather than sew ups, tubs are just too expensive, it does for the club 10 but really need a carbon low pro for opens." Whats real scarey, is I know, exactly what this means!! I need to get out more!! I'm turning into a ponce!!
My back wheel wobbles. Not bent, and the scewers aren't loose, it just seems to be rattling when I shake it.
From my in-depth description - this is fixable, right? (by which I mean with spanners and things, not by throwing money at it!) Much as I intend to get fancy wheels for the IM, I was hoping to put this off till next year!
loose hub or cassette by the sound of it...............is fixable but you need to find out the cause in the first place - it could be wear.............I'd take it to a bike shop and get them to check it for you if you don't know what you are doing (getting a cassette off ain't that easy and needs special tools)
Could be out of true as well (the spokes are slightly loose and the rim buckled slightly) - take it to your LBS and get them to check it. Shouldn't be more than an hour or so to get it back in true.
Not really an IM question but it's about bikes.........
Just bought a new MTB which has an HG40-7 "mega-range" cassette. This goes from 11-24 but they've then stuck a 34 on the back. The 34 makes light work of the steepest hills but the jump back to 24 is ridculous. So, does anyone know if I can replace the cassette with something more sensible?
I think it's worth getting the tools to replace a cassette - it's useful to swop cassettes for different events and also just to clean the cassette every now and again - cassettes split down into individual sprockets so you can really get them looking as new if you do this.
All you need is an adjustable spanner and the little tool to fit the cassette lock ring (this is just a socket really) - and ideally a chain whip (a bit of chain attached to a handle) to stop the cassette turning while you undo the lock ring though you could bodge it or use an old chain. It's only a 10 minute job. A good tip is to put the quick release swewer through the lock ring tool to keep it tight to the lock ring and stop it slipping.
This is assuming you haven't got an old style screw on block with the freewheel mechanism in the block rather than the hub - removing them is slightly different and taking them to bits is generally more difficult too.
I noticed there was an earlier question about pumps. I've just bought one of the following from wiggle having seen a friends one do the job extremely well over the last year. It's a cross between a track pump and a mini-pump that is well made and works, not just a crap compromise.
The main benefit to me is that it has the flexible hose bit. Since I've broken a few valve stems and had those annoying slow punctures around the stem that are impossible to repair due to pumping with a standard mini-pump that stresses the valve, it seems ideal. Haven't tested the accuracy of the guage but it seems ok.
i know we've talked about shoes a lot, but can i just confirm that with clipless it's the cleats that matter in terms of pedal compatability, not the shoes themselves?
Comments
excuse me for asking but WTF does this mean?
especially fixed ones!!!
and you spent more on your runaround bike than I have on my race bike ;-)
but you clearly know your stuff.
Whats real scarey, is I know, exactly what this means!! I need to get out more!! I'm turning into a ponce!!
Are you a secret bike ponce in denile?
one of my favourite stand up routines....
I have no idea what the rest of the bike ponce stuff was about though..
My back wheel wobbles. Not bent, and the scewers aren't loose, it just seems to be rattling when I shake it.
From my in-depth description - this is fixable, right? (by which I mean with spanners and things, not by throwing money at it!) Much as I intend to get fancy wheels for the IM, I was hoping to put this off till next year!
Just bought a new MTB which has an HG40-7 "mega-range" cassette. This goes from 11-24 but they've then stuck a 34 on the back. The 34 makes light work of the steepest hills but the jump back to 24 is ridculous. So, does anyone know if I can replace the cassette with something more sensible?
All you need is an adjustable spanner and the little tool to fit the cassette lock ring (this is just a socket really) - and ideally a chain whip (a bit of chain attached to a handle) to stop the cassette turning while you undo the lock ring though you could bodge it or use an old chain. It's only a 10 minute job. A good tip is to put the quick release swewer through the lock ring tool to keep it tight to the lock ring and stop it slipping.
Wiggle link to Topeak Morph pump
The main benefit to me is that it has the flexible hose bit. Since I've broken a few valve stems and had those annoying slow punctures around the stem that are impossible to repair due to pumping with a standard mini-pump that stresses the valve, it seems ideal. Haven't tested the accuracy of the guage but it seems ok.
what exzactly are the requirements needed for the bike to comply with in order to be acceptable to ride in an ironman.
I thought it was summat i planted in the garden!
2 wheels, frame and handlebars. Set a budget and get the one which fits the best. How much do you have (not want) to spend?
And a hybrid is a bike that's between a MTB and a road bike. No good for road racing, and no good for MTBing. Good for pootling though.