I think that's summat to do with saving your legs for the run ?
Maybe for the future, but I think it looks weird.
Lamces Nads. Hmmm - I think he had one removed. He's fanatical about weight, so I dunno if he had a falsie put in. Didn't think it appropriate to ask when I saw him at the Tour !
I pick up my new bike on Thursday, any ideas on good shoes to buy, not too expensive mind and also I might need to look for some second hand 650 wheels for training-any good sites to look at?
Cougie. my new tri bike has that 'advanced' seat tube though it was all jargon at first, but when I tried it.. boy does it work.. also makes for a more stable aero postion over the bars when in the go for it mode..
But I agree again.. thats for yer 2nd or 3rd bike Fruity..!!
Hilly shoes, Roadie stuff you want as stiff as you can get to transfer the power.
650 wheels ain't that easy to come by.. maybe tri 220 adverts or cycling plus?
FR. The bike sound OK to me as an entry level model. Campag was always better than Shimano in my day. Tyres are important 'cos you will need a compromise between hard wear for training and light weight for racing. It wouldn't be unusual to have a pair of training wheels/tyres and a pair of racing wheels/tyres. I can't think what particular advantage a tri seat post would give. Look at what the cycling pros do. They always go for the most effective equipment. I assume the wheels are q/r. Make sure you get pedals with shoe fixing. It makes pedalling much more effective but be prepared to fall of at the first few traffic lights 'cos you forgotten to release your shoe early enough.
You might ask about secondhand bikes. They have no value so they sell cheaply. Try Cycling magazine (weekly). There's masses of racing bikes in it, new and secondhand, with real bargains. Finally, make sure they check accurately the frame size that you need. JJ
Seems like JJ answered it all for you, 3FR, except the reason triathletes go for tri geometry frames is because we spend all day down on the aero bars. I can't give you too much useful input because I had my Centurion bike custom-built for tri racing and use a different road bike for training. I have Shimano 105 on my tri bike, Mr. IW has Ultegra, more expensive but in my opinion not really much better.
Yeah - most non-deadly serious peeps just bolt 'em on and off they go. Bit funny for a bit, but then you get used to them and they are really quite comfy. I've known a mate of mine to find himself nodding off on them !
Aww. How am I, er, gonna borrow you bike now ? Stairs ???
Look Cougs, if you must do it - at least wait until I've got insurance!
Talking of which - I think my contents insurance only covers bikes up to £250. I haven't had time to look into it properly, but is there a "standard" way of insuring more expensive kit like this?
FR. Evans have tri bars and would customise your bike for you in any way you want. Probably not for nothing but they would want to sell you a bike and any new kit so they would be 'helpful' on fitting costs. JJ
Cougie, I think there's a bit of height difference between us (!) So I don't think you'd fit me Quintana Roo.. but yer more than welcome to try..!! (might be a bit of a funny sight thats all!!)
I was thinking of getting a bike aswell so I could cross train on days when I'm not running.
Apart from the bike itself (and shoes) what other gear is essential. Can I use my running clothes e.g. Adidas tights, HH wicking top, windproof gilet. What about a puncture kit and pump (or are tyres puncture-proof) these days ?
I've noticed on a racing bike that there is no basket on the front or paniers at the back, how do you carry things ?
padded pants (comando stylee) is highly essential.. other than that yes, running kit can be used... what do you want to carry? Rucksac for big things or cycling tops (as do tri ones) have little pockets in the back to store light stuff like bars, jackets and puncture kits...
Comments
Maybe for the future, but I think it looks weird.
Lamces Nads. Hmmm - I think he had one removed. He's fanatical about weight, so I dunno if he had a falsie put in. Didn't think it appropriate to ask when I saw him at the Tour !
(the saddle angle that is, not having your nads removed!)
I pick up my new bike on Thursday, any ideas on good shoes to buy, not too expensive mind and also I might need to look for some second hand 650 wheels for training-any good sites to look at?
Are you thinking of doing some tri's too?
my new tri bike has that 'advanced' seat tube though it was all jargon at first, but when I tried it.. boy does it work.. also makes for a more stable aero postion over the bars when in the go for it mode..
But I agree again.. thats for yer 2nd or 3rd bike Fruity..!!
Hilly shoes, Roadie stuff you want as stiff as you can get to transfer the power.
650 wheels ain't that easy to come by.. maybe tri 220 adverts or cycling plus?
The bike sound OK to me as an entry level model. Campag was always better than Shimano in my day. Tyres are important 'cos you will need a compromise between hard wear for training and light weight for racing. It wouldn't be unusual to have a pair of training wheels/tyres and a pair of racing wheels/tyres. I can't think what particular advantage a tri seat post would give. Look at what the cycling pros do. They always go for the most effective equipment.
I assume the wheels are q/r. Make sure you get pedals with shoe fixing. It makes pedalling much more effective but be prepared to fall of at the first few traffic lights 'cos you forgotten to release your shoe early enough.
You might ask about secondhand bikes. They have no value so they sell cheaply.
Try Cycling magazine (weekly). There's masses of racing bikes in it, new and secondhand, with real bargains.
Finally, make sure they check accurately the frame size that you need.
JJ
I bet it sits in the shed for months after all this!!
You know where to find me, I guess, if you want to discuss anything else about bikes. Or mail me.
JJ
I can't give you too much useful input because I had my Centurion bike custom-built for tri racing and use a different road bike for training.
I have Shimano 105 on my tri bike, Mr. IW has Ultegra, more expensive but in my opinion not really much better.
I'll give you £200 for it in 3 months time.
JJ
Are tri-geometry the ones with the different seat angle?
(where is my stripy top and swag bag ?)
You will need to practice on tri bars, but that's not really suitable for most rides.
Actual racing time will be by far the smallest proportion of your time spent on it.
Mmmm - gizza go of your TT bike please ?
Sorry - probably a dumb question, but I'm new to all this!
I don't actually have a shed, i live in a flat )
Aww. How am I, er, gonna borrow you bike now ? Stairs ???
Talking of which - I think my contents insurance only covers bikes up to £250. I haven't had time to look into it properly, but is there a "standard" way of insuring more expensive kit like this?
Evans have tri bars and would customise your bike for you in any way you want. Probably not for nothing but they would want to sell you a bike and any new kit so they would be 'helpful' on fitting costs.
JJ
You have have to contact the insurer/broker and put it on as a named item.
JJ
I think there's a bit of height difference between us (!) So I don't think you'd fit me Quintana Roo.. but yer more than welcome to try..!! (might be a bit of a funny sight thats all!!)
Apart from the bike itself (and shoes) what other gear is essential. Can I use my running clothes e.g. Adidas tights, HH wicking top, windproof gilet. What about a puncture kit and pump (or are tyres puncture-proof) these days ?
I've noticed on a racing bike that there is no basket on the front or paniers at the back, how do you carry things ?
what do you want to carry? Rucksac for big things or cycling tops (as do tri ones) have little pockets in the back to store light stuff like bars, jackets and puncture kits...