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Numpty IM Bike Thread
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Thank you for the reply
+1 with CD
use your gears more effectively - if you work on the principle of keeping the chain line as straight as possible, then you're OK.
and get the LBS to check it out - a simple adjustment to the limit screws will do the job of stopping the chain dropping
Thanks, all taken on board - and I shall try to put it into practice when I go out again tonight. I will ask them to look at it when I go to get it correctly fitted. Had it just been on the smallest gear I would have just ignored it but with it happening on 3 of them it was a bit more of a worry.
Thanks FB. the tyre bulges like a python that's eaten a rabbit. it's wiggly too. so looks very asymetrical when i spin it. same with both wheels. i guess it must be a fault with the tyres or perhaps my wheels are just too wide.
Maybe a 2016 reunion, i might be let out to train for my 40th year. Hopefully there's an enforce BMI rule.
I popped into Evan's today. The kid there suggested overinflating the tyres to 80 psi to get the tyre to seat properly. did that and it sprung out a little. that seems to have done the trick as the tyres ran smoothly this evening.
working on the n+1 rule I have justified the purchase of a new bike. The justification is that I will be amusing my 2 year old on a seat on the back. The sub-text is that I need a bike for winter riding and some tame off road (defintely not mountains).
not planning to spend a huge amount and came across this http://www.decathlon.co.uk/rockrider-51-2013-mountain-bike-grey-white-id_8231773.html#User_opinion. The reviews aren't great but looks like numpties who don't know how to tune gears.
seems a bargain - anyone have any experience or thoughts?
personally I wouldn't go near it as I wouldn't trust the quality of materials on any bike selling new for less than £200 - Decathlon or not. Decathlon do make some very good inexpensive bikes but they are around the £500 mark and of similar quality to other brands around £7-800.
but on the other hand at that price, what do you have to lose (bar £160)? if it's just something to pootle around locally on with the kid on the back and take on the occasional track/canal path type ride it may be OK
but if you like a decent bike to ride on, I'd avoid
Thanks FB - that's kind of what I was thinking....
Mrs Cat has one of those (I think, or a 5.2). It does the job for what she needs it for. I.e. cycling to the pool and family bike rides.
Caveat Emptor etc though. Gears were badly tuned.
Hopefully this is the right (safe !) place to ask what I am sure is a daft question....
Why is it / how can a different saddle make such a difference ?
The reason I ask is that a friend and I recently rode bikes with Fizik Arione saddles and after about 40 miles found them incredibly painful. We're both about 5'10 in height, about 11 stone and are used to riding further.
Would love to hear any thoughts or ideas about what to look for when looking for a new saddle.....
the best saddle.is.one.that does not hurt.
its very personal
I love my ism adamo road but many others hate them.
Any thoughts on the Trek Domanes? Looking at the 4.7 2014 WSD as I need the shorter top tube of the WSD to make tri bars an optifit bike fit wise. Is it worth upgrading thee wheels to aero ones? The shop seem to think I'd be better spending the money going up to the 5 series but that's a few hundred more than upgrading thee wheels. Or are the wheels that it comes with OK?
From the point of a newbie with a decent but old 80's road bike already but it's a size top big.
Can I ask a silly question. Can i use zipp 808's on my bike. Have a triple ring and 8 rings at the back (whatever that's called
) Have got them on but the chain seems to be slipping in all but the biggest ring at the back. I'm sure I've put it on properly
SS - zipp 808 standards are for a 10 speed chain setup and firecrest 808's are for 10 and 11 speed setups, now then you can play let's put spacers in game but I wouldn't recommended it as its not really designed for it and a bit of a bodge, you can also change the the free wheel hub where the cassette sits but this is even more of a ball ache so answer is yes and no...
SSnail - with respect to WK that's not true and we need more info to give you a meaningful answer.
Yeah er my bad I'm thinking like a idiot, giving bike advice while tired bad times..... A case of just adjusting the derailleur.... Waffling whiz is waffling apologies
I can try and give more info but not really sure what I'm talking about.
Here goes....
It's a triple ring 50/39/30
The cassette at the back has 8 rings - the biggest has 25 teeth and the smallest has 12
It's a Trek bike about 5 years old. Any other info you need?
What make and speed (8 speed etc) are the shifters On your bike? What freehub is currently on the zipps - do they have the 8 speed cassette on them or is that your other wheels and are they for shimano or campag ?
They're shimano 8 speed which has the 8 speed cassette on my present bike. The zipps have 10 speed ?(10 rings)
True numpty question but what are the benefits if a lighter bike? How much weight difference would there need to be to be noticeable to a begginer?
Lighter bike means easier climbing at the end of the day, which is the main advantage..... For a beginner a standard carbon or alloy bike would be fine as you only want too be dropping loads of weight on the bike if you are going for the pointy end.... well within reason... I say this because lighter means more and more casssssh! But too sum it up lighter = easier
SS - i think most if not all Shimano 10 speed hubs will take an 8 speed cassette so try swopping the 8 speed cassette on your wheels on to the zipps. A quick google suggests that 8 speed cassettes are actually wider than 10 speed so if there is a spacer on the inside of the 10 speed cassette on the zipps remove that - it will be like a thin washer behind the rearmost sprocket. My son uses an 8 speed cassette on some dura ace 10 speed wheels I had spare So your set up should be the same.
Not certain on that but think that's the case - easy to try it anyway if you have the tools to change a cassette or know someone that does. You may have to tweak the indexing so if it goes on but doesn't shift properly don't assume it can't.
Popsider - Thanks for all the info. I have no tools but might just pop down to the LBS to see how much one costs. Having looked up how much the wheels cost I'm a bit nervous about fiddling with them
but they look damn good on my bike and and like to see if they make a difference to someone with my cycling ability i.e. slow
Well just been to bike shop, bought tools (not much) and booked to get them to do it Thursday if I can't do it
hi guys - i'm wondering if anyone can recommend a sturdy bike for a 6ft5, 17.5 stone guy. he's not fat, just a giant. he did mention that he'd read cyclocross bikes are often considered a good choice. He'd need a 64cm frame. anyway, any ideas, please let me know.
i remember a few 17.5 stone pirates, but not 6ft5
thanks
his weight shouldn't be a problem on most standard road frames - just don't go for an ultralight one close to the UCI limits as he'd probably break that on the 1st pothole!
I'm over 16 stone (although not 6'5" but I wish....
) and my carbon road frame (Isaac Pascal) has seen me through thousands of miles without problem.
I think he'll find more problems getting a frame in the right size for him as most places don't stock the largest sizes so he's best going to talk to a decent bike shop who can advise. I think Giant and Spesh are good with larger sizes
and some sturdy wheels would also help
"I'd go no narrower than 25mm tyres or so."
I ride 23s....
Who'd have thought that 'Specialized' and 'Giant' would be good with out of the ordinary, larger sizes?