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Numpty IM Bike Thread
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LOL - v good = Giant and Specialized indeed. Well spotted.
another, probably, daft question...
I've got a decent set of wheels (Reynolds Attack) on my TT bike with an ultegra cassette on the back wheel. The TT bike isn't seeing much/any action this year so I want to use the wheels on my roadie which has a SRAM drivetrain. Presumably I need to put a new thingie on the back wheel to convert it from Shimano to SRAM so that a SRAM cassette will sit properly on the wheel.
Assuming that conversion is required (or can I just swap cassettes)... is this a job for a mechanically competent bike numpty? Or do I need to risk the LBS? And if it's DIY do I need any special tools other than the whip and cassette removal tool which I already have?
Cheers guys n girls.
Shimano and SRAM are interchangeable so you can just put the wheels straight on to the road bike
Oh fab... someone told me that they are not a perfect match and that could cause accelarated wear and tear between the two brands... is that not the case?
Popsider - Just a straight swap on my cassette. No indexing needed and have also beeen lent proper brake pads for the zipps
Can't wait to try them out this weekend
cougie/fb - thanks re "giant" advice! sounds like it isn't necessary to go for a cyclocross bike then. he definitely won't be going for an ultralight bike as he's only looking for a cheap secondhand bike. going to take a while for a 64 to come up on ebay though i expect.
I was in 'that' shop yesterday looking at an entry level Boardman MTB for winter training, when the highly skilled and efficient shop assistant told me the size I wanted wasn't available, but Boardman are releasing a new range next month - the Boardman MTB 650B's - which I can only assume means they're switching to 650 wheels - despite Boardman always saying otherwise (the highly skilled and efficient shop assistant didn't know what any of that meant!).
Has anyone else heard anything about this, and am I right in thinking this may be a better option for an all-round winter trainer?
Is it 10 speed? If so then the Shimano cassette will have a very thin spacer behind the cassette. SRAM 10spd cassettes don't need this spacer as they're a smidge wider.
I chop and change between wheels and SRAM/Simano cassettes. My turbo wheel needs a small re-index but the road wheels are all plug and play.
SS - we need pics!
No problems at all. You'll get more wear problems by using a new cassette and old chain as they tend to wear together. So if the Ultegra cassette is pretty new/not used much it may be worth while to pop a new chain on when you swap them over. It isn't 'necessary' though.
Raf - there are a number of brands jumping on the 650b MTB bandwagon - I think most of Trek's 2014 offerings are 650s as well. it's probably their way of selling yet another type of MTB - they've done 26" and 29", so now they're going in-between with 650s (approx 27.2" I think).
they seem to think a 650 will offer a rider a balance between a standard 26er (which has been around for a very long time now and is still fine), and a 29er (which some riders rate highly on more open tracks as the longer wheelbase makes a smoother - maybe faster - ride).
in reality - probably not a huge difference. both my MTBs are 26ers and I'm happy with them. will a 650 make a better all round winter MTB?? depends what you compare it with! it will probably be good enough for the vast majority of buyers - only the true MTB officianados will argue if it's better than a 26 or 29 based on using all 3.
if the deal's good - go for it is my answer!
in some ways, it's a similar question to which is better - no-sus, hardtail or full- sus - in reality, they all offer a rider something different and have different uses but there's no reason why all 3 can't do the same trails!
cool.. cheers guys (re SRAM/Shimano)... will give it a go tomorrow unless its piddling down in which case I will to the pub!
SS - we need pics!
I have absolutely no idea how to put a picture up
This winter I want to learn how to maintain my bike. I want to learn how to look after the chain, gears, brakes, how to disassemble it for travel and more importantly how to reassemble it afterwards
.
Can anyone recommend any resources to learn from? Books, dvds, websites or youtube vids? Thanks.
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/ is great site.
haynes do a bike manual but it's fairly basic.
The best resource I know of is the "numpty bike" thread on RW!
There is loads on the internet, forums, youtube etc, the Park Tool website used to have good advice on it and probably still does Too.
I have the option to swap my PX 60mm carbon clinchers (tubes, tyres) for an 82/101mm set of PX carbon wheels + tubs.
Thoughts...
Try-to-athlon, there's a useful manual on the Flo Wheels website:
http://www.flocycling.com/buildabike.php
Cat, if it's solely for race day then the deeper wheels will be a bit quicker, but it's unlikely to be a huge amount, especially over the shorter distances you're racing over these days. Tubs can be a bit of a faff if you're not used to them and if you're going to be doing a lot of training rides on them I'd personally stick with the 60s.
I've got an old set of 82/101 PX you're welcome to borrow if you want to try them out without getting rid of the 60s.
I've done a few TTs this year too, so would use them for that.
I still have a fear of tubs and DNFs (having never had this problem)! The 60s tend to stay on the bike 24/7 unless on the turbo.
I did use a pair of 82/101 on a flat twisty non-windy course and can't say they made much difference.
I may investigate faster tubes/tyres and a disc-cover instead.
On this mornings 45 mile ride in the rain (lovely), I could not use the largest rear ring because it made a loud noise each time I shifted into it. Now home and looked at, the rear deraileur is scraping the spokes on the wheel. Never had this before and don`t know why this is happening today. Tried adjusting using the two screws but no change. Any ideas anyone?
Zinn and the Art of Mountain/Road Bike Maintenance are good books. Break everything down nicely, good clear diagrams. Getting a workstand helps a lot too. Hated fiddling with gears without one, now it's a joy!
Well 99.9% either the cage ( bit that will be touching the spokes) is bent or else it's moving too far over. If it's changing gear fine it's probably not bent just moving too far over - in which turning the correct limit screw clockwise should fix it.
As you say it hasn't fixed it make a visual check that you are tightening the correct screw and that it is contacting the part of the mech that blocks it moving any further inwards. If the screw is doing that maybe the cage or rear mech is loose or something like that but my money is on it just needing adjustment.
It could be you've bent the rear mech or the hanger slightly - if you look at it from directly behind the bike does it look vertical?
The two screws you're talking about are the limiter screws. They don't actually adjust the mech other than stop it moving across too far, and if it's been badly set up in the first place you might need to wind it quite a way - keep going until it stops the chain going on to the large cog at all, then wind it back a bit. If the mech still rubs the spokes then either somethings very loose or it's bent.
Had a similar issue on my mtb t'other week, but it wasn't the spokes it was catching on, the top jocket wheel was being pulled in too close to the cassette. Adjusting the b screw got that sorted http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/rear-derailler-adjustments-derailleur
The bit that hangs down (im guessing that`s the `hanger`), is not quite vertical (leans very slightly in) and on thinking about it, last ride last Sunday, I did have one of those embarrassing didn`t get my shoe un-clipped in time tumbles. Rode ok for 6miles after, but it was flat so I wouldn`t have used the inner cog. Sounds like I`ve bent the hanger?? It wasn`t shifting that great today either (I have Shimano Sora, so it`s never brilliant). Just pull it out a bit or a trip to the LBS.
You could try bending it straight, could be the cage on the mech that is bent or the hanger ( the bit the mech attaches to - probably looks like a replaceable part of your frame).
If you can get it vertical you might have to reset the limit screws if you've adjusted them.
Ps - I meantry and bend the cage straight, be a bit wary about trying t o bend the hanger
Thanks all for your advice. I`ve eased it out and it looks pretty straight now and not rubbing on the spokes. Test will be on the next ride. However, I think this fault should be grounds for a new bike. Planet X doing their RT57 race geometry carbon road bike with SRAM Force for £1100.
Now, how do I convince Mrs DoM.
My turbo trainer is starting to make the occasional squeak. What do I need to oil and what maintenance do I need to do to keep it working?
today's numpty question, one that's been bugging me for a long time
why do people push their bike by the saddle in transition? it's always seemed much easier to me to push it by the handlebars
Holding the bars you're more dragging the bike I guess.
I don't really think it makes much difference - personal preference ?
I don't know what I do !